The Last Summer Sew...Simplicity 1887

I have decided that this is my last summer sew and that it's time to move the cotton lawn to the bottom of the stash pile and the wool to the top. I can't really count these trousers as a success but I also like them too much to count them as a failure. So I'm going to sit on the fence and call them a wearable toile. I love light comfortable trousers in the summer and that it exactly what they are. The pattern is very versatile and can be a pair of shorts, two skirts and three pairs of trousers so there are plenty of options to take your fancy! I decided to make trouser A but with a tie as I like tucking tops into high-waisted trousers and skirts and thought that this could be an interesting detail. The fabric, which I bought at Walthamstow market, was an absolute steal at £3 a metre. It was the end of the bolt, but I managed to squeeze the trousers on, with just the inside of the front waistband panel being made in a plain dark pink cotton.

Understandably for trousers I made a lot of alterations. Before cutting, I lengthened the trousers. After making I also drastically took them in from the pockets down to the heels as they were quite large on the leg, about an inch each side at the widest point, which also allowed for me to taper them a bit more at the ankles. As you can see from the pictures they aren't quite sitting high enough on my waist. I have only used a tiny seam to join the waistband to the trousers in order to get as much length possible but it still isn't quite enough. When I make my next pair, I will definitely add an inch and a half onto the top of the trousers so they sit correctly.

I love the pockets on these trousers, which were easy to insert and had very clear instructions. I am also pleased with the decision to keep the tie, although I would lengthen this next time so that it could also be tied into a pretty bow!

Whilst, I do like this pattern, and definitely will be making them next summer...I still don't think that I have found the elusive perfect trouser pattern. Do you have any patterns you suggest?

Vintage Vogue

I am absolutely in love with this dress which I made for a friends wedding. As soon as I received the invitation I started rummaging the Vintage Vogue patterns in John Lewis. I decided upon the V1172 because of the dreamy neck line and beautifully huge skirt. This pattern took a sky rocketing 6 metres of fabric 115cm wide! I bought the fabric, which is a medium weight cotton, from Sew Over It.

As you can see, I was seduced by the red illustration on the front cover...

With all that fabric, who could resist a little twirl...

I made a size 8, but possibly should have made a 6 on top and graded out to an 8 at the waist as when I tried to adjust the bodice through the bodice side seams I was unable to due to the amount of ease in the curves which was frustrating. So, as you can see above, the fit of the bodice is not as good as it could be. The skirt it made from 5 pieces, including two large godets which give it a beautiful shape and plenty of movement. I feel like it's crying out for a petticoat!

I tried to keep as many of the vintage touches as I could, which included lingerie straps. Horary! No need to a strapless bra! I don't know why all dresses/tops don't have these? The dress has a side zip which was sewn into a small pocket. This was my first time sewing a zip in this way and although far from perfect, I'm happy with the result. There was one vintage touch I didn't keep. The design has an inside belt which they recommend making from grosgrain ribbon. I made this but found it so uncomfortable that I decided not to include it.

I am officially hooked on Vintage Vogue patterns, do you have any recommendations for my next one?

1940's Tea Dress...Like a phoenix from the flame

I excitedly bought the pattern and fabric (rayon mix) from Sew Over It in Islington for the 1940's Tea Dress. I couldn't wait to start sewing and in my enthusiasm I once again didn't wash the fabric (I clearly didn't learn my lesson!). I absolutely loved this dress, it fitted beautifully and reminded me of the vintage Biba dresses my mum used to wear. The only alteration I made was to take it in at the bodice by a couple of centimetres. After washing it, I winced when I saw the curving zip, immediately alerting me to the fact it had shrunk. Because of my love for the dress I spent a weekend letting out all of the seams, adding a bias binding hem (in the hopes of adding a centimetre or two) however I couldn't rescue her. She had become an ill fitting, wobbly hem shadow of her former self.

I decided to replace her with a spotted version. I bought the fabric from Walthamstow market, I think it's a rayon mix again but I couldn't be sure. This time, I washed the fabric first! I made the same alteration to the bodice but other than that the fit was once again perfect. I added three red heart buttons to the front, which I bought from The Makery. Whilst I love this new spotty version...I can't help but think wistfully to the original. Perhaps my next project needs to be a remake? Have you ever remade a whole item of clothing?

Espadrilles in Petal and Bud...

I am a bit late in blogging these as I made them quickly to take on holiday...so excuse the slight dirt on the soles! I was inspired to make espadrilles after reading Karen's post on 'Did You Make That'. So I quickly ordered a sole from The Makery and a fat quarter of Liberty Print 'Petal and Bud' from ebay. The instructions recommend a medium weight cotton, however I just couldn't resist making a pair in Liberty Lawn! Because of this, they probably aren't long for the world! I have however worn them pretty much every day on holiday (on some very pebbly beaches) so I think that they are holding up pretty well! I lined them in a purple spot (also cotton lawn), to highlight the purple in the Liberty print.

The soles came with instructions and a pattern. The soles do come up big, so if you aren't sure what size to buy I would buy the size down. It's worth mentioning that you do need to add your own seam allowance to the pattern provided. There is a small amount of machine stitching to create the lined front and back but after that it's all hand stitching. Blanket stitch is used to attach the pieces to the soles. I hadn't sewn using this stitch before but found a useful tutorial online. I used Prym Espadrille Yarn Thread for the blanket stitch, however I'm sure that a strong thread would also work well. Karen is indeed right, making your own espadrilles is easy!

Oh my darling Clemence...

I have been busy sewing again! This time I have decided to make the Clemence skirt using the self drafting instructions by Tilly and the Buttons in 'Love at First Stitch'. I really enjoyed sewing this skirt, particularly as it has French seams (the zig-zag stitch on my machine is pretty pathetic) which makes it beautiful both inside and out. I love the gathered full skirt and just couldn't resist a swishing picture!

This was my first project dabbling with pattern drafting and I loved it. It has resulted in a skirt which fits extremely well and which needed absolutely no alterations at all. I had some large paper which had centimetre squares on it which made the whole process even easier as I could be sure everything was completely straight and square. I had some difficulties with the zip insertion this time. I bought a different style zip which was softer and had material sides which were akin to netting. This didn't work well with the skirt which is made of medium-weight cotton. However, after a couple of attempts I'm rather happy with how it went in.

I couldn't resist styling Clemence with my Kate Spade Flower Pot bag which Susie and Belle (her seal-point sister) were very interested in!

What projects have you been working on this week?

Bright pink Clemence!

Hi! After enjoying making Megan from 'Love at First Stitch' I have decided to make another pattern from this book...The Clemence skirt! The Clemence is a high waisted gathered skirt. I have purchased a bright pink Makower cotton from Sew Over It in Islington. If you haven't visited, it's a beautiful shop with plenty of fabrics and patterns to choose from. I couldn't help indulging in quite a few of Lisa's patterns when I was there as well as this fabric!

The Clemence skirt involves some self drafting, however this is simple and only relates to one measurement, the waist. I'm slightly concerned that the fabric I have chosen is a mid-weight cotton which could become bulky at the waist because of the gathers. Does anyone have any tips to avoid this?

Megan in wonderland!

Hi! I have actually managed to make a dress! I made the rather beautiful Megan dress from Tilly and the Buttons 'Love at First Stitch'. I have to say that I am really pleased with the end result.

I got in a bit of a muddle with the darts and managed to have them going different ways but with a quick unpick this was easily rectified! What would I do without one! Sadly, I have had one other lesson to learn from this project which I can't rectify with a quick unpick...always prewash fabric! This dress has gone from fitting comfortably to feeling slightly too fitted for my taste. However, as my first make I'm sure that I will still get plenty of wear out of it!